Nostalgia can be evoked in different ways, but scents are particularly likely to because of the strong biological link between scents and memory. “Autobiographical memory in particular,” says Chelsea Reid, researcher at Virginia Commonwealth University. “The olfactory bulb, which is involved in the sense of smell, is linked to areas in the brain associated with memory and emotional experiences.” Furthermore, scent-evoked nostalgia directly activates the reward centers of our brain, to create those warm fuzzy feelings of positivity, social connectedness, and self-continuity.
Complex and dynamic forces are at play, as one walks through ethnic food aisles. It’s a validation of identity, an experience that can be both therapeutic and addicting. It also impacts how good one thinks the foods taste, as well as those who provide it. London grocery stores having American food aisles, and Whole Foods selling ghee and chicken tikka masala are reinforcing the same memory recall. Yet, for the typical first generation immigrant, shopping at the local ethnic market entails much more than buying halal meat, and freshly made chapatis. It’s a multi-sensory engagement of not just a recreated past, but also a cultural exchange amongst families, talking about trips back home, graduation ceremonies and grandchildren.
Vibrant Indian, Pakistani and Bangladeshi grocery stores, stacked with fragrant spices and sweets, have been capitalizing on this craving for “home” since the 1960s. Additionally, these ethnic stores often occupy spaces in ethnic districts, that have a rich cultural history of prior immigrant groups. For immigrants, these physical sites serve as important mnemonic devices in creating collective memories. Even Alabama residents often drive hours to get to the closest ethnic market for “whiffs” of home, community exchanges and chats over chai and samosa.
